So, although it's taken a little longer than the week I said, here is an account of the last ten days or so spent at the start of My Big Holiday.
My dad has been with myself and Emily up until an hour or so ago and it's been lovely having him here. This is what we did.
We arrived late last thursday (14/7) into Amman and stayed in a hotel. Basic but nice.
http://www.hostels.com/hostels/amman/mansour-hotel/22700
This however was just a stepping stone. We set off immediately early the next morning for the south and Wadi Rum. This took some time but after what felt like an age of travelling arrived there at around 12. A taxi driver directed us to Mohammed Sabah and Sunset Camp.
http://www.wadirumsunset.com/
Sitting down for tea, we looked at the possibilities for what we would do for the next couple of days in the desert. Somewhat predictably, we ended up doing this:
We hired a guide and three camels and set off into the desert. Exploring the vast arid and beautiful landscape was our mission for the next few days. The first we spent moving around Wadi Rum, setting off almost as soon as we arrived. Moving from place to place in the Wadi (the spring where T.E. Lawrence would shower, Nabatean carvings in a gorge) and eventually stopped at the Bedouin camp out in the desert. There we stopped, ate, were entertained by an Oud and eventually slept soundly in our tent (after having encountered a group of students from Amman). The second day we went out into Wadi Rus, going around 20km out towards the Saudi border. The landscape, though desolate, was incredibly beautiful and the colours and shapes of the rocks and sands shifted gradually as the camels lumbered along (a note on that, although intially uncomfortable, once a position had been found that allowed you to sit well they weren't all that bad)
These two days were incredible, the bedouin hospitable and a camel the only way to travel.
The next day was again spent travelling, north from here on in, to Petra. Arriving fairly late in the day (around 2 in the afternooon) we arrived in Wadi Musa, the town next to Petra. Deciding it was too late in the day to set off for Petra (a huge attraction, the visiting of which had been a lifetime ambition of my dad's) we settled back briefly for a cup of tea on the roof terrace and, when the sun had let off a little of the intense, dry heat, went further out to the area known as "Little Petra". This was a gorge a little way away from the main site but by no means less interesting. Situated there was a collection of caves, stairs cut up the side of the gorge and water cisterns carved directly into the rock. Fascinating by all means but by far an easier way to spend the afternoon.
The next day we set out early for Petra proper... We explored both the most spectacular and most famous sites within and spent much time clambering around the smaller caves. Most of the site which has been excavated (around 5%, a staggering figure when its vastness is taken into account) was once the funerary complex of the capital of the Nabateans, a group of people who, although never in possession of an empire, held sway over a sphere of influence which extended from Damascus to the south of the Arabian peninsula, and taxed the caravan routes which went through this area. They had a rich culture, with Hellenistic and Latin influences, and buried their dead in caves carved into the very rock of the gorges within which their capital lay. These influences are apparent in the style of their architecture, some of which still remains.
One of the joys of these days was the lack of other tourists on the site, due in part to the hit the tourist trade has taken on account of the current troubles in the region. We found ourselves able to wander and explore without having to jostle for a position.
Already a highlight.
The next day we went north to Karak, site of the ancient Kingdom of Moab, mentioned in the books of Kings and Amos, and now famous for the castle built by Frankish crusaders in the 12th century. Although now in fairly bad state, its former glory was obvious. Towering over the modern town, this was a marvel of architecture and engineering.
It is worth noting here that many of the places we have visited over the last week in Jordan, with the notable exception of Madaba (more to come) were not in a particularly good way. Poorly kept with little to no work done in terms of conservation of repair, there is a clear need for the Jordanian government or others to do more to ensure the survival of these treasures. This was most obvious in the museums at these sites. Despite being vast, little is on show in the way of artefacts and remains, seemingly down to a simple lack of work. A great shame indeed.
The next day we set off for Madaba. This is the heart of Jordan's Christian community, with over a third of the population from one denomination or another (mostly either Greek Orthodox or Catholic) and the site of some of the best preserved Roman mosaics I have ever seen either in person or in picture. St. George's church (Orthodox) is home to the oldest known map of the Middle East. Detailed in mosaic on the floor, although now partially incomplete, one can clearly see Jerusalem, the Jordan, the Dead Sea and many other Biblical landmarks laid out precisely on the floor of the church. This, however, was not the highlight. The town boasts an array of modern churches, ruins of Byzantine churches complete with mosaics and Roman ruins.
We found the town to have a fantastic atmosphere with beautiful attractions.
A highlight was the Catholic cathedral dedicated to John the Baptist. The curator took us around and up the bell tower and told us of the visit of the late Pope John Paul II to the town, during which he gave a sermon and, along with the King, reconsecrated the church after its renovation. Alongside it was a small gallery with a collection of photographs taken in the town around the turn of the last century, some of which can be seen here http://www.mansaf.org/catholic/madaba2.htm.
Yesterday we moved on again, this time to Jerash and to another set of Roman ruins. The town, then known as Gerasa, was part of the Roman Decapolis and derived its wealth from the rich soil of the surrounding area. A wide area, again poorly excavated (we were finding pieces of Roman pottery simply lying in the dirt as we walked around) containing two theatres, several churches with beautiful mosaic and a colonnaded street with original paving occupied us for several hours longer than the guidebook would have had us believe. Incredible examples of Roman civic buildings throughout.
We stayed this last night in a nice hotel located outside of the town and enjoyed the views, cool breeze and a meal together.
This morning and afternoon was spent in Amman, where we had also spent some time on the Friday (22nd).
All in all this last week has been wonderful. I apologise for a lack of pictures but the internet bandwidth isn't sufficient to upload more without it taking all night.
Until next week.
x
My dad has been with myself and Emily up until an hour or so ago and it's been lovely having him here. This is what we did.
We arrived late last thursday (14/7) into Amman and stayed in a hotel. Basic but nice.
http://www.hostels.com/hostels/amman/mansour-hotel/22700
This however was just a stepping stone. We set off immediately early the next morning for the south and Wadi Rum. This took some time but after what felt like an age of travelling arrived there at around 12. A taxi driver directed us to Mohammed Sabah and Sunset Camp.
http://www.wadirumsunset.com/
Sitting down for tea, we looked at the possibilities for what we would do for the next couple of days in the desert. Somewhat predictably, we ended up doing this:
We hired a guide and three camels and set off into the desert. Exploring the vast arid and beautiful landscape was our mission for the next few days. The first we spent moving around Wadi Rum, setting off almost as soon as we arrived. Moving from place to place in the Wadi (the spring where T.E. Lawrence would shower, Nabatean carvings in a gorge) and eventually stopped at the Bedouin camp out in the desert. There we stopped, ate, were entertained by an Oud and eventually slept soundly in our tent (after having encountered a group of students from Amman). The second day we went out into Wadi Rus, going around 20km out towards the Saudi border. The landscape, though desolate, was incredibly beautiful and the colours and shapes of the rocks and sands shifted gradually as the camels lumbered along (a note on that, although intially uncomfortable, once a position had been found that allowed you to sit well they weren't all that bad)
These two days were incredible, the bedouin hospitable and a camel the only way to travel.
The next day was again spent travelling, north from here on in, to Petra. Arriving fairly late in the day (around 2 in the afternooon) we arrived in Wadi Musa, the town next to Petra. Deciding it was too late in the day to set off for Petra (a huge attraction, the visiting of which had been a lifetime ambition of my dad's) we settled back briefly for a cup of tea on the roof terrace and, when the sun had let off a little of the intense, dry heat, went further out to the area known as "Little Petra". This was a gorge a little way away from the main site but by no means less interesting. Situated there was a collection of caves, stairs cut up the side of the gorge and water cisterns carved directly into the rock. Fascinating by all means but by far an easier way to spend the afternoon.
The next day we set out early for Petra proper... We explored both the most spectacular and most famous sites within and spent much time clambering around the smaller caves. Most of the site which has been excavated (around 5%, a staggering figure when its vastness is taken into account) was once the funerary complex of the capital of the Nabateans, a group of people who, although never in possession of an empire, held sway over a sphere of influence which extended from Damascus to the south of the Arabian peninsula, and taxed the caravan routes which went through this area. They had a rich culture, with Hellenistic and Latin influences, and buried their dead in caves carved into the very rock of the gorges within which their capital lay. These influences are apparent in the style of their architecture, some of which still remains.
One of the joys of these days was the lack of other tourists on the site, due in part to the hit the tourist trade has taken on account of the current troubles in the region. We found ourselves able to wander and explore without having to jostle for a position.
 | |
| The monastery at Petra |
The next day we went north to Karak, site of the ancient Kingdom of Moab, mentioned in the books of Kings and Amos, and now famous for the castle built by Frankish crusaders in the 12th century. Although now in fairly bad state, its former glory was obvious. Towering over the modern town, this was a marvel of architecture and engineering.
It is worth noting here that many of the places we have visited over the last week in Jordan, with the notable exception of Madaba (more to come) were not in a particularly good way. Poorly kept with little to no work done in terms of conservation of repair, there is a clear need for the Jordanian government or others to do more to ensure the survival of these treasures. This was most obvious in the museums at these sites. Despite being vast, little is on show in the way of artefacts and remains, seemingly down to a simple lack of work. A great shame indeed.
 |
| The underground marketplace in Karak castle |
The next day we set off for Madaba. This is the heart of Jordan's Christian community, with over a third of the population from one denomination or another (mostly either Greek Orthodox or Catholic) and the site of some of the best preserved Roman mosaics I have ever seen either in person or in picture. St. George's church (Orthodox) is home to the oldest known map of the Middle East. Detailed in mosaic on the floor, although now partially incomplete, one can clearly see Jerusalem, the Jordan, the Dead Sea and many other Biblical landmarks laid out precisely on the floor of the church. This, however, was not the highlight. The town boasts an array of modern churches, ruins of Byzantine churches complete with mosaics and Roman ruins.
We found the town to have a fantastic atmosphere with beautiful attractions.
 |
| Thalassa, personification of the sea, in the Church of the Apostles, Madaba |
A highlight was the Catholic cathedral dedicated to John the Baptist. The curator took us around and up the bell tower and told us of the visit of the late Pope John Paul II to the town, during which he gave a sermon and, along with the King, reconsecrated the church after its renovation. Alongside it was a small gallery with a collection of photographs taken in the town around the turn of the last century, some of which can be seen here http://www.mansaf.org/catholic/madaba2.htm.
Yesterday we moved on again, this time to Jerash and to another set of Roman ruins. The town, then known as Gerasa, was part of the Roman Decapolis and derived its wealth from the rich soil of the surrounding area. A wide area, again poorly excavated (we were finding pieces of Roman pottery simply lying in the dirt as we walked around) containing two theatres, several churches with beautiful mosaic and a colonnaded street with original paving occupied us for several hours longer than the guidebook would have had us believe. Incredible examples of Roman civic buildings throughout.
We stayed this last night in a nice hotel located outside of the town and enjoyed the views, cool breeze and a meal together.
This morning and afternoon was spent in Amman, where we had also spent some time on the Friday (22nd).
All in all this last week has been wonderful. I apologise for a lack of pictures but the internet bandwidth isn't sufficient to upload more without it taking all night.
Until next week.
x
